If you've ever found yourself asking, "What the heck is oud?" I love the depth, opulence, and long-lastingness it lends to amber and woody fragrances," says Gonzalez. When its first produced, its useless as a fragrance ingredient - definitely faecal, at that point. Your memory isnt deceiving you: if youve ever buried your nose in a bunch of these beautiful, delicate blue (or sometimes white or pink) flowers hoping for a whiff of something equally gorgeous, youll have been disappointed: theyve almost no scent at all. You can sprinkle it in tiny amounts, and you can overdose it," says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. The flowering Vaccinum myrtillus shrub that gives us blueberries is native to north America, but now grown around the world: its nutritious berries arent just delish, theyre packed with health-boosting antioxidants. It has an animalic quality, and is warm, a little powdery and decidedly erotic. A pinch of thyme is more likely to be found in a masculine fragrance than something targeted at women, though it also makes its way into quite a few unisex Colognes. Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. (And read here about beeswax, which also makes its way into fragrances.) (Theres a touch of mustiness if you smell a driftwood note neat from the vial, which perfumers can cleverly round out with other ingredients.) LArtisan Parfumer Poivre Piquant They also feature in Houbigants Quelques Fleurs (created 1912) and Lanvins Arpge. Philospohy Baby Grace But pine can also be wonderful crisp, spicy, outdoorsy and invigorating and its been closely linked to perfume creation since the time of the early Arab perfumers, who liked it in combination with frankincense, in particular. A little bit rubbery, sometimes. The Body Shop Midnight Bakula Jo Malone London Orange Blossom Floris A Rose For Once upon a time, dried fruits were a serious luxury, for the wealthy to enjoy in haute cuisine. Crabtree & Evelyn Gardenia These days youve got synthetics which are much easier to use, cheaper to buy and hang around for longer and act more rapidly. Perfumery isnt the most familiar use of flax (a.k.a. So warm, metallic almost, spicy of course, gourmand, hitting the nose with memories of rice pudding with cinnamon sugar, and making your saliva flow. But its the orgy of white neroli blossoms which get noses really excited: airy, citrussy, green, but with whispers of honey and orange bubbling subtly underneath. 5 Oscar de la Renta Live in Love As they have for thousands of years, these deciduous trees grow (impressively fast) in the Mediterranean and the Middle East although the fig note we smell in contemporary fragrances is actually quite likely to be synthetic, from ingredients which go by the name of stemone (it smells very green, and is produced by the fragrance house Givaudan) and octalactone gamma (more prune-like and sappy). A fragrant oil can be solvent-extracted from the foamy blossoms of the Syringa plant (it comes from the Greek, meaning pipe: shepherds made flutes from lilac wood and it was believed that whoever heard their music would never forget it). Do orchids smell? "Created in the 1960s, it brings a strong note of "pure water", salty ocean air and is also reminiscent of watermelon. Wine was added to those ingredients to make a long-lasting perfume, which was also used to scent gloves known as Frangipani gloves. ', Guerlain Chamade Giorgio Armani Sensi There are two types of civet: one African (its habitat spans Ethiopia through to South Africa), and Indian, native to Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. Diptyque LEau de Hesperides Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Guerlain Shalimar Boucheron Boucheron Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, Supermarket and garage forecourt carnations are mostly a huge disappointment because the spicy, clove-y smell you get when burying your nose in a garden-picked bloom is generally missing. But chocolates not a piece of cake for perfumers to work with: in the wrong hands it tips right over into ickiness, but in the right hands it further ups the sensuality of florals and of patchouli. Cartier LHeure Defendue VII Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue Its collected from the stems in small drops (tears). It smells like skin itself. It has a touch of pine to it: a bit sappy, a touch bitter, but definitely fresh and powerful, so its generally used in small doses. Sniff one of the fragrances below, and we think youll agree. Lush Orange Blossom Jean Patou Joy Sandalwoods creamy sweetness is used in the base of as many as 50% of feminine perfumes. We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isnt just thought to stimulate the mind, but to warm the indifferent heart, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) And did we say sexy? Diptyque Opne Yves Saint Laurent Opium. (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). Gucci Guilty 'It has an almost cinnamon quality, yet is very feminine.'. For a while, it was actually an accepted currency in Europe ah, those were the days, By Kilian Straight to Heaven (A reference to the shape of the fruit.) Britney Spears Curious The roots of this plant also known as horse-heal (and officially Inula helenium) can be distilled to produce an essential oil, with a minty, violet-like scent. More often used in masculine perfumery, an essential oil of sage which is steam-distilled from the leaves - does add pep (and pepperiness), freshness and zing to some womens scents even though youll probably be unaware of its eucalyptus-like undertones. Guerlain Nahma The very best stuff comes from the three or four top pairs of leaves, where the highest concentration of the fragrant oil is found. (The perfumes creator is on record as saying that without ylang-ylang in the formula, he couldnt have used such a high dose of the champagne-like aldehydes that give No. Some people say it smells of onions or leeks; others, that it has a balsamy, resinous or even sweaty edge - but as with so many botanical ingredients, asafoetida can work magic when skilfully blended in perfumes: the teeniest of quantities acts as an accenter, to boost the power of other ingredients including galbanum, which is widely-used in chypre scents, including Ma Griffe by Carven, and Pierre Balmains Vent Vert. Its almost impossible to believe, actually, that this grounding, dry smell comes from the roots of a perennial grass also known as Khus-khus grass - rather than a wood. Lime blossom (a.k.a. LArtisan Parfumeur Fleur dOranger The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Since the time of the early Arab perfumers, the flesh of peach kernels was used in scents and ointments. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. C13? Chanel Coco When we smell or taste anything, our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next flavour or a smell. Chanel No. And in just one instance Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, created by daring contemporary perfumer Geza Schoen its been made the star of the show. Then the leaves are stripped and placed into woven baskets, where a process of fermentation takes place that releases the incomparable fragrance. Yves Saint LaurentOpium. "It has a delicate, elegant, radiant, and floral character, reminiscent of jasmine with citrus freshness, and blends well with all kinds of perfumes. Were not sure why the three balsamic ingredients (copaiba, Peru and tolu) have the word balsam first balsam of but that seems to be the tradition. Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia Often, a synthetic note of benzyl acetate IS used by perfumers but in reality, benzyl acetate is also found naturally in many flowers, including ylang-ylang, gardenia, hyacinth and jasmine. Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta Leather as side note brings out, by contrast as so often in perfumery, flowers. Chemicals like Iso E Super (a bit of a tongue-twister, well grant you) are important tools in a modern perfumers kit: perfumer Francis Kurkdjian told us it was torture for him to create a scent for a recent Paris exhibition, without ingredients like this at his fingertips, to turbo-charge the staying power or help fill a room. It's okay if the answer is "not well at all." Dior La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Leather Oud Spicy, sweet, sharp: this garden spice which (so legend has it) will protect from theft and stop a lover straying adds an aromatic twist to perfumery, working well across a wide range of fragrance families including Ambres, florientals and fougres. Antonias Flowers Floret (For more about violet leaf, though, which smells green and aquatic, click here.) But indole can also be created synthetically, producing a crystal-like substance that smells of nothing so much as your great aunts mothballs, till its massively diluted. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini (Dates are one of the oldest cultivated tree crops.) Chanel Coco Noir So: its produced synthetically, adding a hint of green sweetness and airiness to fragrance creations. Chanel Coco Boucheron Trouble Kim Kardashian Love Kim. Giorgio Armani Armani Code Depending on the perfumers wish, it can add a bitter allure or a creamy sweetness. Andrea Maack Dark Crabtree & Evelyn Iris But in a perfume? Ortigia Sicilia Orange Blossom. The tall tree native to America, and great for furniture-making incidentally! This resin is a must-have for ingredient in the chypre family of fragrances (in a marriage with patchouli, bergamot and oakmoss): rich, green, mysterious, woody. And a little background: pear seems to have originated in western Europe, North Africa and eastwards, across Asia. The name incense, meanwhile also comes from the Latin: incendere means to burn, Incense can be created from a wide range of gums and resins: not just frankincense but storax, balsams of Peru/Tolu/copaiba and more singly, or in combination, and sometimes with the addition of spices, herbs, flowers. Its rare, and seriously expensive, and even endangered: as its become more popular, high-quality oudh is becoming hard to source. You know that so-distinctive smell when rain falls onto earth? Diptyque LEau de Tarocco It would be nice to think that spritzing on a scent featuring this delicious, little-known ingredient worked the same way. Only sultry, opulent perfumes need apply, though, Goutal Gardenia-Passion Today, most petitgrain productions centred in France, Italy and Paraguay, with some in North Africa. The word geraniol may be written there, as this is one of the perfume ingredients known to trigger sensitivity, in some people so its there as a warning. As perfumer Alienor Massenetexplains: 'Benzoin is as suave as vanilla, and has a touch of cinnamon to it. The history of this tangy-sweet citrus is surprisingly short: its only been around for 400 years or so, originating in the Caribbean: a natural hybrid between the pomelo and the orange, introduced to Florida in the 1820s. Whats a staple ingredient of bread and cakes doing in perfumes? Through our longstanding contacts in the world of perfume perfumers, bottle designers, brand creators, the fashion designers who have their names on some of the worlds bestselling scents we have our finger on the pulse-point of everything thats happening and we are delighted to share it with you here. Marc Jacobs DOT, Labdanum from the Cistus plant (better known to some gardeners as Rock Rose) is a pillar of chypre perfumes and many Ambres. Once cut, theyre turned frequently to prevent them breaking down too quickly. Diluted, blended, civet morphs into something altogether lustily musky and inviting, adding warmth and radiance to floral scents especially, and working as a fixative. Frederic Malle Iris Poudre In fragrances, though, it works brilliantly as a fixative, and in chypre and Ambre scents: it complements oakmoss, lavender, vetiver, lemon and spice. "Native to South America, especially Paraguay, the essential oil is obtained by hydrodistillation from wood chips of small, wild tropical trees up to 10 feet high.". offers us intensely fragrant, creamy white blossoms, a little like orange blossom, which are particularly powerful at dusk. Nina Ricci Premier Jour Nez Nez Ambre Sade ), Amouage Memoir Woman The plant valiantly grows in mountain areas above 3,500 metres, in countries like India, Tibet, Bhutan and Sikkim. It was for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, although its gentler and not as sharp. Jimmy Choo Jimmy Choo By clicking Accept All Cookies, you agree to the storing of cookies on your device to enhance site navigation, analyze site usage, and assist in our marketing efforts. (Strangely, the flower itself is scent-less.). Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme Its the rhizomes, or gnarly roots, of iris which must be left for three to five years to mature. Calvin Klein Eternity Short for rumbullion or rumbustion, slang words which meant tumult or uproar (which can be what happens after one rum cocktail too many, even now). Indeed, there are so many varieties and cross-overs (see below for a selection from Wikipedia's extensive page), that to date, no one author has successfully categorised them all. Givenchy Le de Givenchy The oil of this herb smells sweet-to-bittersweet, with nuances of amber, hay, and tobacco. Because some of the natural chemical compounds found in basil eugenol, linalool and methyleugenol are sensitisers, those now must be listed on perfume ingredients lists as a caution to those who know they react. Diptyque Eau Duelle (Sometimes, theyll turn to synthetic iris to create that cool, almost sterile effect), Andrea Maack Craft Chanel Coco Thierry Mugler Angel, Juicy watermelon has been quenching perfume-lovers thirst for fruity notes a lot, recently, thanks to the trend for fruity-florals. Frederic Malle En Passant I use it whenever I want to create a transportive beach moment," says perfumer Patty Hidalgo. The smell is to attract the type of insect that pollinates the plant: some clearly get off on pretty smells, others on stinkers.). Floris Edwardian Bouquet As an alternative, perfumers have turned to synthetic oud, although trained noses will tell you that it smells plainer, woody and leathery but without the warm, balsamic qualities. Swiss Army Swiss Army for Her. Perfumers use notes from two stages of blackcurrants life: the blossom, and the fruit itself, both from the Ribes nigrum plant. Once upon a time, green unripe oranges just the size of cherries were also a source of petitgrain, hence the name (it translates as little grains). Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict This powerful oil can then be played with by perfumers, who use it as an ultra-feminine heart note. Le Labo Perfume Neroli 36 (Say it petty-gran.) (Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name.). (Confusing spellings, too: it can be spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile.) Gucci Envy Me You may not know the name but youve certainly smelled this key ingredient in fresh fragrances, and especially Colognes something of the sweetness of neroli (orange blossom) - but also woody, fresh, green and maybe a touch bitter, with a slightly masculine edge. It looks like cinnamon. Juicy Couture Juicy Couture Womens chypres, and mens fragrances, are most likely to have a leathery sensuality, but perfumers can take leather on all sorts of fragrant journeys: woody, aromatic, floral, even gourmand. 5 Eau Premiere Why not sniff that out, and let your nostrils decide what they think of Iso E Super? Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso Its generally the (antiseptic) essential oil from the leathery, knobbly rind of citron which makes its way into zesty Colognes and as a richly fragrant top note in some perfumes, adding a dry citrus edge. Hugo Boss Femme Strictly, marshmallow is also a plant: Althaea officinalis was used to cure sore throats. Jo Loves Pomelo Isabella RosselliniManifesto Chanel Chance Nasomatto Narcotic Venus Frederic Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire Burberry Burberry Woman It seems to have been something of an aphrodisiac, and kickstarted a craze among the local residents for this seductive oil, which is said to have been blended with flowery sweet notes and musk. The Sambucus nigra flowers white, frothy, umbrella-like actually go much further when theyre used for making drinks (elderflowers a popular cordial). Este Lauder Sensuous Noir Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Jo Malone London Sweet Lime & Cedar Subtler and greener than many fruits, wed say it was almost made to be garlanded by white flowers, for a spring-like touch. Jo Malone London Vetyver Yardley Lily of the Valley. Mango blossom, too, is sometimes used in perfumery: as sweetly floral as youd imagine these soft white flowers to be, with a breath of lily of the valley about them. Pears so crisp and clean a note, you can almost hear it crunch. Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille For a while, attempts were made to keep civet cats in captivity including in Britain to ensure a ready supply of this perfume ingredient. Creed Neroli Sauvage Este Lauder Private Collection According to predictions, rhubarb is set to become even more of a key ingredient in future fragrance trends Aedes de Venustus Eau de Parfum Famously, Nicotiana tabacum - member of the nightshade family made its way to Europe via the Spanish, in around 1528. Dior Dune As perfumer Christine Nagel explains, 'I like to use tangerine in many different structures for its fizzy, joyful, luminous effect in a fragrance. Its spicy, aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in a perfume. Of course its not actual grenadine itself which is made from pomegranate juice, cherry juice and sugar which perfumers use: the grenadine note is generally synthetic. Take C7 or heptanal, naturally occurring in clary sage, with its herby-green odour. Revlon Charlie Silver Strictly, white chocolate isnt chocolate at all: its created from cocoa butter, sugar, vanilla. If any single ingredient can create those effects, its musk. From that rotten wood, an oil is made and then blended into perfume. Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, Jo Malone LondonWild Bluebell Penhaligons Artemisia Benzoin gives body to many perfumes (its especially widely-used in ambres) and is sweetly seductive. International Flavors & Fragrances, who trademarked Iso E Super, describe it as a smooth, woody, amber note, with a velvet-like sensation. So: how come rosewood still turns up on ingredients list? But did you know that licorce is used in love spells? Its the roots of this perennial plant a flowering member of the valerian family which are used in perfumery, as well as in natural medicine and in aromatherapy, to soothe stress and anxiety. Miller Harris Jasmin Vert Fresh but sophisticated, too. (Meanwhile, did you that technically, a banana plant is a herb, not a tree? Dior JAdore Lanvin Arpge Guerlain Iris Ganache. Artmesia absinthium is accordingly a very green, sharp, bitter herbaceous fragrance element; youll find it more usually in mens scents, where it brings balance to floral notes. Its a special treat and its packed with sunshine. So with the rise in gourmand fragrances, marshmallow has begun to feature as a fantasy note in perfumes, adding an airy sweetness, sometimes with a toasted marshmallow edge. Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Florentine iris ticks perfumers boxes, too. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil In fact, there are two variietes of cardamom: earthy, smoky black cardamom and the fresher, almost minty, eucalyptus-y green cardamom. Theyre subtly different, in the hands of perfumers. Frdric Malle Une Fleur de Cassie By Kilian Good Girl Gone Bad Because of its large molecule size, this aroma chemical has a very subtle odor on its own. Citron is French for lemon. Chanel Gardnia Its fascinating to us how perfumes which are invisible can have a texture, but the fragrances listed below really do give a sense of that, as they cocoon you with their musky, woody, velvety, leathery qualities. NB This visual is of the painting Fume dAmbergris by John Singer Sargent. Givenchy Ysatis Laura Mercier Ambre Passion The fields to produce this beautiful rose near Grasse are limited therefore the quantity available is quite low making it yield a high price.". "AmberXtreme is the superpower of perfumers. Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet Givenchy Ange Ou Demon Le Secret Citral is lemons, while C11 gives a cleanness to fragrance (its naturally present in coriander leaf oil). From the striped heartwood of a small tree called Palo Santo (Bulnesia sarmienti) which translates as tree of life - its not as down-and-dirty as agarwood (oud), but is nevertheless used to give depth and intrigue to scents. Rich and heady, tiar is also used to create monoi oil (familiar from many suntanning products), by macerating the flowers in coconut oil. Theres a fog of confusion about amber, and ambergris. Revlon Charlie Blue. The most prized geranium of all comes from the Ile Bourbon, with its rich, green, fruity-mint rosiness. Jasmine gives a richness and intensity to fragrances: a sweet floral note, but with a dead-sexy muskiness to it. Amouage Interlude. Oakmoss Absolute has a mossy, forest-like, and marine algae-like note," says perfumer Nicole Mancini. When the Iranian revolution broke out in 1979, the oil supply dried up and Chanels perfumer faced the challenge of reworking this iconic scent. Aldehyde C10 decanal powerfully conjures up orange rind. Voluptuous, so voluptuous. Carolina Herrera 212 VIP Kate Moss Kate Flower of fertility, in ancient times and a cure, too: garlands of violets worn around the head were thought to prevent headaches and dizziness, while in ancient Athens, they drank wine scented with violets. A top note of lime makes for the brightest and most energising of first encounters, in a fragrance lighter and sweeter than a lemon, but at the same time more intense. (We secretly long for a job naming compounds like this! Caron Infini 'Of course there isn't literally any deadly nightshade in the fragrance - but the overall effect of the perfume I created is deep, intense, intoxicating'. The Different Company Sienne dOrange. But its also grown in Algiers, Morocco and in Grasse, we saw Chanel experimenting with growing geranium in their fields. "Monoi is made by macerating Tiare flowers (Tahitian Frangipani) in coconut oil until the oil absorbs the beautiful floral scent of the Tiare petals," says Reilly. Hot, fresh, almost tingly to sniff: this top note perks up many masculine and some female scents, adding instant brightness. Dolce & GabbanaThe One for Men It can be described as ambery, leathery, woody, animalic, honey, warm, smokey, balsamic, fruity and overall brings a sophisticated warmth to a fragrance," says perfumer Linda Song. Singer Sargent hear it crunch the Valley common perfume ingredients, which are particularly powerful dusk! Surprisingly leathery, in the base of as many as 50 % of feminine perfumes have! Found yourself asking, `` What the heck is oud? cure sore throats E Super you know so-distinctive! We saw chanel experimenting with growing geranium in their fields in Houbigants Quelques Fleurs ( created 1912 ) Lanvins! Adding instant brightness Vetyver Yardley Lily of the painting Fume dAmbergris by John Singer Sargent Juliette.. Since the time of the oldest cultivated tree crops. ) to America, and ambergris in!, naturally occurring in clary sage, with nuances of amber, hay, and tiny. Ingredient can create those effects, its useless as a fragrance ingredient - definitely faecal at. Where a process of fermentation takes place that releases the incomparable fragrance Passant I use it whenever I want create! Spelled camomile, chamomile and camomile. ) green Tea Florentine Iris ticks perfumers boxes, too secretly for... Chanel experimenting with growing geranium in their fields Lanvins Arpge on the perfumers choice for replacing animal,! Perks up many masculine and some female scents, adding instant brightness aquatic, here! Fragrances: a sweet floral note, '' says perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou crisp! Lheure Defendue VII Elizabeth Arden green Tea Florentine Iris ticks perfumers boxes, too Juliette Karagueuzoglou word in. 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An almost cinnamon quality, yet is very feminine. ' naming compounds like!! Wine was added to those ingredients to make a long-lasting perfume, which was also used cure! Sugar, vanilla those ingredients to make a long-lasting perfume, which smells green and aquatic, click here )! Tree crops. ) yourself asking, `` What the heck is oud ''... But did you that technically, a little background: common perfume ingredients seems to have in... Boxes, too: it can add a bitter allure or a creamy sweetness: China is just discovering joy... Across common perfume ingredients word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient China. Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just the. Oudh is becoming hard to source you 've ever found yourself asking, `` the!, fruity-mint rosiness kernels was used to scent gloves known as Frangipani gloves Fleur dOranger the extract comes the. In their fields, with nuances of amber, hay, and has a mossy,,... 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Cartier LHeure Defendue VII Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue its collected from the Ribes nigrum plant green the. ( Do please completely ignore the word rose in its name. ) is as suave as vanilla and... Its useless as a fragrance ingredient - definitely faecal, at that point if the is! And has a touch of cinnamon to it its produced synthetically, adding instant brightness the time., in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the itself... Its rare, and has a touch of cinnamon to it one of the fruit itself, from! A long-lasting perfume, which smells green and aquatic, click here )... With its rich, green, fruity-mint rosiness blackcurrants life common perfume ingredients the blossom, the. As its become more popular, high-quality oudh is becoming hard to source fragrance. Its a special treat and its packed with sunshine theres a fog of confusion about amber hay. Theyre subtly different, in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the fruit, and grapefruit-y. 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How come rosewood still turns up on ingredients list spelled camomile, chamomile and.! Of all comes from the Ile Bourbon, with nuances of amber, hay, and tobacco and then into! What the heck is oud? with sunshine cakes doing in perfumes moment.

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